Upper Canada

Extract from " A Visit to the Province of Upper Canada, in 1819," By James Strachan.

[?] the Stream of Emigration now chiefly to the United States, and not to Canada.

The greater number are decieved; they know no[?] of this country. Many leave Great Britain from [?] discontents; and such the province is better. [?]. Lately the notes of Mr. Birkbeck have ex[?] much consideration; and all his assertions have [?] believed, without investigation. Though I [?] [?] a bad man (I know him only from his [?] yet he is much to be pitied, for his choice is [?]; and by this time he begins to feel it. [?] Birkbeck, accustomed to all the comforts, and, [?], much of the elegance of life, plunges, [?[ family, into a forest, where they have fre[?] to sleep under the canopy of heaven with a [?]. He is forced to take the axe in his hand, [?] in felling the pines of which he is to make [?], which he builds at a great distance [?] neighbour--opening to a wet plain, in [?] and an impenetrable forest in the rear. This [?] covered with bark--it has no floor but [?] as the surrounding country is flat, there [?], and no boards to be had. Mr Birk[?] date not leave home, for any distance, with[?] guide; and his children cannot go twenty [?] from the house, without being lost. He gets [?] pressing of his wants supplied at an enormous[?] expense. And now, that he is on his land. [?] shall he do; it is covered with trees, or it is [?] unhealthy; and if he hire people to work, [?] of the farm will never pay them: but [?] bae servants, and he is obliged to sit down [?] them, and to become their companion. Mr. Birkbeck[?], who was accustomed to go from one field to another, admiring his crops and his cattle, and thing to do but to give the servants their orders the day, and saw all his works proceeding as ra[?] as he wished, now finds himself an insulated [?], surrounded by a few miserable fiels, taken [?] the bog, and full of musquetoes; his children [?] sick from this unhealthy situation; and, in [?] severe disease, beyond the reach of medical assistance. It is possible to believe that, under such circumstances, he does not regret the country he has [?]. And let me not be told that the prospect of [?]] his children a rich inheritance will turn the [?] into sweet--he is not that sort of man; nor do [?] any law of nature which urges a parent to [?] his own happiness, in order to confer a doubt[?] upon his children. We allow that, after a [?], he will be surrounded with neighbours; [?] their society is not very agreeable; it is indeed [?], as Mr Birkbeck himself admits. After [?] his connexions, his country, all his early [?] and pleasing recollections, his ease and [?] what does he gain? Some landed property, [?] he dies in improving, in an unhealthy situation[?]. He may not be able to leave a farm to each of his children[?]; but of what use will they be if not cultivated[?]? And he will discover in the bitterness of [?], that this legacy is not equal to the placing [?] upon a farm, though taken at a rack-rent. [?] different the situation of a loyal farer, pos[?] of Mr. Birkbeck's substance, if he should [?] this province[?]![?] He need not go ten miles from [?] settlement, even if he went at once up[?] lands granted him by the crown. But, if he [?] an improved farm, his privations will be [?] compared to those which he must suffer in [?] to the back settlements of the United States, as [?] still more fully appear.

It should not, however, be forgotten, that, with [?] possible advantage of soil, neighbourhood, [?] climate, emigration to America, a country so [?] from Great Britain, is a matter of deep and [?] consideration. The persons emigrating [?] civil in their property, break up all commerce, [?], and connexions in the country they are leav[?] and if they find their expectations disappoint[?] the country of their choice, they are ashamed, perhaps unable, to return. Emigrants often fail, [?] they have never examined their subjects pro[?] and find, on trial, that they do not possess qualities to insure success.--The habits, knowledge, and accomodation of manners, [?] this new life requires, are not, perhaps, na[?] to them--they have not the strength, the [?] and perseverance, which their new situation [?]. The emigrant is not prepared to meet the difficulties[?] which the climate, new manner of living, [?] or vermin, may bring upon him; and which, [?] of all his exertions, may frequently destroy [?]. It is, therefore, the greatest cruelty to [?] the matter partially; and, while the advantages [?] from the old to the new world are drawn [?] most fascinating colours, to conceal the priva[?] and sacrifices which must be made, and the [?] of failure which may be opposed to of success.

We[?] shall have occasion to prove, by the most un[?] the evidence, that Upper Canada offers to emi[?] advantages, vastly superior to any portion of [?] United States; but we would still admonish [?] thinking to leave their native country, [?] the matter with severe minuteness, not [?] away by golden dreams; and to prepare [?] should they decide upon going, to meet [?] [?] from sickness, from different [?], [?] labour, and privations of various [?] Yet though no step can be so important as [?] leaving one native's country for ever, it is to [?] that such a step is taken without due con[?]. The fancy is deluded with goldren dreams; farmers[?] in America are owners of the soil on [?] they live; they have no rents to pay, no tax[?] their doors; possessing a noble indepen[?] they acknowledge no superiority but genius [?]. These are high sounding things, but [?] than solid. Before a man allows him[?] deluded by them, he should remember, [?] no great hardship to pay rent, if his pro[?] three times the price in England that it [?] America; that the difficulty of bringing [?] to maret, a tax, not perhaps inferior [?] he had paid at home, and attended with difficulties[?] which he never experience; that [?] of intercourse by good roads and canals, [?] time, and the tear and wear of his car[?] amd cattle are worth a very considerable sum; in removing from his native country, he is [?] the improvements of a thousand years, to en[?] all the rudeness of nature; that he is risking [?] happiness, and that of his children, by a [?] [?] be retraced, and plunging into [?] whose manner and habits are different from his own; and that he will have every thing to learn in the midst of strangers.

When a man has, after mature deliberation, determined to emigrate, which various considerations may, in particular cases, render prudent, his next question is, Where shall he go--to the United States or to Canada? We shall suppose the persons emigrating to be friends to the British constitution; for if they are not, there is no question; because levellers and democrats will find themselves in a bad situation in coming to Canada, as they will find no kindred spirits there. But though we can willingly spare such as these, to lose good subjects is a serious evil to the empire; and to lose them through ignorance, and the want of that information which it is in our power to give, is a folly, as well as all evil.

I am persuaded, that all emigrants, of the description we mention, would rather prefer to remain undue their own government, than to live under and swear allegiances to another, provided no greater sacrifices were required in going to the one than to the other. I am indeed quite certain, that many would consent willing to a considerable sacrifice for this advantage, so agreeable to their feelings and habits; but we shall shew that no such sacrifice is required, and that their interest, as well as inclination, when duly considerd, will lead them to Upper Canada.

In going to the United States, we have Mr. Birkbeck's authority, that 'no good settlement can be made cast of the Alleghany mountains, or in the Atlantic States.' The lands are now so dear, as to be in general, far beyond the reach of common emigrants, who have seldom much left after landing in America.

Suppose two families to land in America--one at New York, or Philadelphia, on the way to Mr Birkbeck's settlement; and one at Quebec, on the way to Upper Canada.

Miles From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh 320 From Pittsburgh down the Ohio, to Shawanoe Town, 1200 From Shawanoe Town to Mr Birkbeck's settlement, 50 1570

Expense of a family travelling this route, supposing the family to consist of ten persons, and to carry with them two tons of goods:

Dollars. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, at eight dollars per cwt. 320 The expense of the family, who accompany the waggon, at one dollar each per day 100 From Pittsburgh to Shawanoe, by water, down the Ohio, 1200 miles. An ark, or large scow, must be purchased, hands hired to go down, and they must be paid to return, as much from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, 420 From Shawanoe Town to Mr Birkbeck, for baggage and person, 100 940 To purchase two hundred acres of land, at two dollars per acre 400 Total expenses 1310

The same family, landed at Quebec, Pays, to Montreal, 200 miles, two dollars each, 20 For the good[?] 12 From Montreal to Kingston, 220 miles, up the river St. Lawrence, goods and persons, for the batteau can take all, 100 If the family proceed to York, which is seldom necessary as Kingston 150 miles within the province, and lands in its neighbourhoods to be sold or granted, there will be an additiona expense of 80 To such a family, possessed of property, government might grant 200 acres, on paying fees, about 70 Or it may be purchased at two dollars per acres, 130 Total expenses, 412

From this calculation it is seen, that the settler, with his large family, by coming to Upper Canada, instead of joining Mr. Birkbeck, even if he purchases his lands at the same price, saves 928 dollars, which will enable him to clear a large portion of his farm, stock it, and build a comfortable house; and if he be granted the land, instead of purchasing it, there is a further saving of 130 dollars.

Let us now see what the product at Mr. Birkbeck's settlement in the Illinois, and in Upper Canada, will command in the market; for, notwithstanding the greatness of the first saving in coming to Upper Canada, if the markets be inferior it might soon be balanced.

Illinois Upper Canada Wheat, per bushel t0 3 9 Wheat, per bushel t0 5 0 India corn, 0 1 1 India corn, 0 4 0 Oats, 0 1 6 Oats, 0 2 6 Hay, per ton 1 19 0 Hay, per ton 2 10 0 Butter, per lb. 0 0 7 Butter, per lb. 0 1 3 Cheese 0 1 3 Cheese 0 0 10 Fowls, per couple, 0 1 7 Fowls, per couple, 0 1 6 t2 8 9 t3 5 1 N.B. These prices, taken from Mr. Birkbeck's book, are t50 per cent, above the truth.

From this table it is manifest, that the produce raised in Upper Canada sells at an advance of upwards of 30 per cent on what the same can be sold in the Illinois territory, supposing Mr. Birkbeck's prices correct, which they are not, being much too high. The vast advantage, therefore, in coming to Upper Canada, must appear manifest.

It may by some be said, that the families are too numerous, as there are few that consist of ten persons; but the results will be proportionally the same, whatever the number be; and if we suppose them to consist of persons in comfortable circumstances in their own country, they will commonly bring servants with them, by which the average will be still greater. But this is of no moment; the difference of expense in travelling 500 miles, or 1570, is sufficiently clear.

We must add, to the disadvantage of Mr. Birkbeck's farmer, the dearness of all those articles which he has to purchase; for his distance from the seacoast and market operates in two ways to his disadvantage. 'His produce is low, and the goods from are dear: the shopkeeper, who is at a great distance from the place where the articles he deals in are procured, will add to the price, when he disposes of the, the additional expense of bringing, and the time lost in procuring them. To him who is obliged to take a journey of 1600 miles to procure his articles of merchandize, the cost and trouble must be very great; and all this he makes the consumer pay. The journey which Mr. Birkbeck's merchant is obliged to take is a very serious one, compared to that of the merchant of York or Niagara. The latter, in consequence of this situation, can trade with a smaller capital than the former; because he can at any time procure a fresh supply in a few days, while the former can lay in a stock of goods only once a-year. Now, all these difficulties are to be paid for by the farmers and mechanics, who consume the articles imported; the difference to them, in the course of a twelvemonth, by receiving less for the articles they sell, and paying more for those they purchase will be found to be very great.

'It is not merely the quantum he shall raise, but the sun he shall get for it, which constitutes the farmer's advantage. It is not simply to get enough to eat and drink that is to bound the desires of the farmer; it is to procure the means of converting his log-cabin into a handsome and convenient house--to erect a large barn for his grain, and suitable buildings for his cattle--to educate his children--and, as he grows old, to enjoy the satisfaction of finding that his industry has supplied the comforts of life, and enabled him to satisfy the wants of society--wants to which we are indebted for amelioration of mankind.'

In the selection of a place to residence in a new country, it is very important to take into view the ultimate market for the farmer's produce. While the country is settling, there will be no difficulty; for the increasing population will demand all the supplies that can be raised. But the prudent settler will look beyond that period, and consider what he shall do when every one raises more grain than he will be able to consume. In that case, vicinity to market, and facility of transportation, are all important. Now, the produce of Upper Canada can be sent to Montreal, one of the best markets in America in five or six days, at a trifling expense, which is yearly diminishing as the waters are improved. Very different is the case with the farmer in the western division of the United States: the immense distance which grain has to be sent, occasions the expense to be so great, as frequently to equal, and sometimes exceed, the price offered when it reaches the market. The more that this statement is examined, the more correct it will be found, and the superior advantages of Canada will appear in a stronger light; but, having been a landholder, it is time to instruct the emigrant how he is to make his living out of it.


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 Extract of a letter received from Calcutta, dated 22d November, 1819:--"An afflicting circumstance has recently taken place. The Captain of the Bengal, a Liverpool trader, very lately gave a ball on board his ship, which was about to sail for England. The party was very small, and more than half were taken ill with a violent fever immediately afterwards. I buried the Captain and the Surgeon a few days after it; not less than ten of the part died within as many days, all younger persons. Only one officer survives of those who left England in the ship, and he is just recovering in the Hospital. All sorts of conjectures were made, but it turns out that there were 17,000 undressed buffalo horns in the hold, in a complete state of putrefaction. This vessel has sailed for England in this state without a Surgeon. I question whether it will ever arrive; it ought not to be admitted among other shipping if it does;--the opening of the hold will be death to him who does it, and perhaps to many more."--In consequence of this disastrous information, Ministers have issued an order for the vessel, on her arrival at Liverpool, or any other part, to undergo quarantine.--London Paper.

All apprehension on the above subject is completely done away by the following letter from Liverpool, May 14:--

"I noticed a paragraph in the London papers, respecting the Bengal, of this port, at Calcutta, stating that a number of deaths had taken place, supposed in consequence of the Infectious vapours arising from some buffalo horns.--The Bengal arrived here April 5, and has been discharged without any of those dreadful consequences which the medical gentlemen of Calcutta prognosticated.--I should rather suppose that the fatal consequences which ensued to those individuals who attended the ball given on board this vessel at Calcutta, would be none justly attributed to the exposure to night air."


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Emigration to Canada

The following is an extract of a letter from a tradesman belonging to Glasgow, who has been six years in Upper Canada, to a friend in this city :--

" York, Upper Canada, 14th November, 1820. "You wish to be informed of the encouragement that you might meet with by an emigration to this country; and as you have determined to place the most implicit confidence in what I may advance. I shall therefore state to you the "truth, and nothing but tl[?] truth, so help me God."--In the first place, you wish to know what might be the value of a hundred acres of land, with six or eight acres of improvement. This is a question that I cannot give a decided answer to, as it depends entirely on the situation where you wish to purchase; but I may with safety average wild land, in this Upper Province, say at 4 to 6 dollars per acre, and the clearing or improving of each acre will cost you from 16 to 20dollars.--In the next place, you wish to know the price of cattle. They have never been known to be cheaper than at the present time. A cow can be purchased at 20 dollars, a pair of working oxen at 40 dollars; a good cart horse at 50 dollars,; sheep, 2 dollars apiece. In regard to farming utensils, there are but few used in this country at any time, and a new settler may be some years in the woods before we want any more than an axe, (3 dollars) a plough, (10 dollars) and a harrow, (5 dollars.)--You wish to know the nature of a Government grant; that has now become no object, as the charges made by Government exceed in many cases what you can purchase land for; and by buying land you have the advantage of choosing a situation agreeable to your mind; but the reverse is the case when you accept of a grant from Government, for you must then take your chance by drawing by lottery; and as the land is already taken up for forty miles round this place, you will then be obliged to go back into the woods, and out of the world. You are at liberty to sell it as soon as you receive the grant; formerly you could.--You wish to know what sum you could establish yourself for in this country as a farmer. There is one thing obvious--the more you bring the less miseries and difficulties you will have to undergo. But as a true friend, I would advise you not to think of leaving home with a sum less than t200 sterling with a sum less than this you undoubtedly subject yourself to hardships and troubles that you have no idea of. Though many have settled here for nothing, their fate has been such that it is beyond my pend to describe; and my greatest enemy I should not advise to come to this country, with the intention of farming, with less capital than I have no stated to you. Many may flatter you, and stuff your head with golden dreams about this country; but you must allow the experience that I have had to outweigh the statements of many that you may have had an opportunity of talking with, who may pretend to have some knowledge of this country, for there are but few settlements between Montreal and the falls of Niagara (a distance of nearly 600 miles,) that I have not visited.--As to the necessaries wanted for a family who may think of coming to this country, I should entirely confine myself to wearing apparel, as clothes are the highest article in this country; and should you think of farming, I would advise you to bring but few fine clothes, but principally coarse and stout. Heavy luggage of any kind becomes very expensive and cumbersome bringing you up the river so far as this, and is often liable to be damaged, in consequence of the repeated re-shipping. The rate of charge of the transportation of good from Montreal to Kingston (200 miles) is 2 dollars per cwt.; and from Kingston to York (200 miles) they charge 1 dollar for each barrel bulk; and from Montreal to York you may get a passage for 10 dollars for each grown person.--By the by, you wish to know the population of this town: it is indeed small in comparison to some of your towns; but I might say that the inhabitants of York might amount to 3000 people. But there is no place that I have visited in my travels that is more thriving than this town; and as a proof, I can safely say that it is now twice the size that it was when I came here, (now three years), and still continuing to increase greatly in buildings; but all wood.--You wish to know the different branches of business carried on here. They are principally house carpenters; and various other mechanics are also employed here.--You wish to know if any of the emigrants have arrived in this place. There are but very few I understand come thus far, the greater part of them having stopped at a settlement called Perth, about miles below Kingston. --Since I have now given answers to all your different queries, let me now give my candid opinion respecting this country. In the first instance, a farmer may live by hard labour; that is, he may acquire a livelihood; but cash[?] is a complete hidden treasure, and is as forbidden fruit to the farmer of this country; and in some places you may live for years and not even behold, a silver dollar through a glass darkly, as all is done by barter in the country. The next evil is the mixture of society; a very few good, intermixed with a multitude of a very different character; but in many places you will be divested of all society, either of a good or bad quality; in either of which situations I am afraid you will find yourself uncomfortable, in consequence of its being so much different to what you have been accustomed to; and the opportunity of spending the sabbath in a religious worship you will also find wanting. And above all evils the fever and ague, that none escape, is the ruin of many a family in this country. But should you think of coming to this country, in order to avoid this disease I would advise you to come no farther up the country than Perth settlement, where this loathsome sickness is seldom known. Now, my friend, by what I have stated here I neither mean to advise or dissuade you from coming to this country; but take it into serious consideration before you embark upon this important."


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Emigration.

The following is an extract of a letter dated Louisville, August 12th, 1820, from a Scotchman who has been long settled in America, to his friend, a Scotch Farmer, who rents 500 acres of land in the County of Middlesex.

"The circumstances in which this country is placed at present are truly melancholy, when compared to what they have been ; yet still it is a better country to live in than Britain. It is not easy to make money by farming, at present, in the United States, for the want of a market; and I am of opinion that things will not mend, in this respect, for some years, for all are sellers and none buyers. All kinds of produce are selling, or rather offered for sale, at one-third of what prices were two years ago. Land, of course, has fallen in the same ratio. The best of cleared land, within from 5 to 10 miles of this town, is offered for them from 10 to 20 dollars an acre. You will thence conclude that this is a favourable time to purchase -- and that for a man who has a little money, and a large family able and willing to labour with their hands, this is a most excellent country, as he can easily raise on this cheap land all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries, of life. He will find it difficult to get gold or silver, or even our own bad bank notes; but a man cannot be badly off with more beef, mutton, pork and grain, than he can dispose of. He has no rent to make up by term day: his taxes are next to nothing, and although he may grumble to have to turn his pigs into his corn field to save the expense of reaping it, or to see his apples rotting under his trees by barn-fulls because he has not room or use for them, yet still these are beatable distresses compared to those of the poor farmers in our native land, and as I suppose in England. To the wealthier farmer the change is not beneficial or desirable. It is true that if he stays long in Britain he will soon become less wealthy; yet still he would for some time regret the change. He would miss many things made necessary by habit; he would find his servants more lazy, and less obedient ; and he would even experience pain because the modes of farming he is accustomed to will not do here; but when he gets over these things, he will find the advantage of the change. To say nothing of the difference of the Government, and the satisfaction of chusing one's own rulers, there are many desirable things here. I estimate, as the greatest, the ease of providing for one's family. A man may, with very little exertion, leave to all his children land enough to make them independent. Hence that sickening anxiety about the future fate of a family is little known here."


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SOUTH AMERICA. Extract of a letter from an Englishman, dated Lima, September 10, 1821.

"Lima is what an Englishman would call a dirty colonial town; 6000 inhabitants is the outside of its population; the whites are about 1200 Europeans, and not as many born in the country; the rest are blacks and mulattoes. Of the mulattoes there are eight various shades. I never saw such a wretched herd as Lima incloses; more poverty and miserty than in any town of the size in the world.--There are some few splendid houses, but the rest so disgustingly filthy that you cannot go into them without being covered with dust and vermin. The streets, as in all American towns, run at right angles; a powerful stream of water in each : the town is capable of great improvement. The climate must be bad, for the whole population look as if turned out of the hospitals for a day's air; a half-born race--melancholy in their faces. On the whole coast of Peru we made the same observation; the ague very general, with fever--their habits and manner of living increase the evil: thin clothing and vegetable diet--nights very cold --I sleep under a heavy blanket, and could bear another; a thick fog prevents the sun from coming out in winter; the heat however is not excessive during summer; on the whole not an oppressive climate, if the people had any idea of living in a rational way. Very few families cook at home--they buy their greasy messes boiled in the streets, in pulperias, and in the squares: not six families in Lima that have wine on their tables: they drink brandy at all hours, and excuse themselves for not having any thing that is expensive, by saying it gives the ague; the same person who denies himself a glass of wine will lay twenty doubloons on a card in the evening. Their money goes in gambling, debauchery, and dress; every woman, high and low, has her price; a lady take no offence at her frailty being exposed; she tells you she is quite as good as her neighbours, and needs be no better. The Spanish nation and Government are the cause of all the degradation of South America: every Viceroy, from Pizarro to Pezuela, was a plunderer, a teacher of immorality in words and deeds. The miserable state of this people seems incredible--one must see to believe it : scarcely a young lady can read or write, or use a needle; few houses that the Devil has not appeared in; and a devout lady is accompanied in her carriage by the Virgin Mary. Thus is ignorance imposed upon by knaves : as to priestcraft, it reigns here in all its glory : a third part of Lima is covered with churches, some of them very splendid. The whole trade of this part of Peru depends on the single mine of the mountain of Pasco for returns : if this is worked to advantage, it will produce six millions of produce. Mining may be carried to any extent, it is true; but this requires tranquility and good government. People in Europe have the most erroneous ideas of Peru; every traveller and historian who has written or talked about it ought to be made to stand in the pillory for a liar.

"Arica, the second port of Peru, and the great outlet to Upper Peru, is a wretched village of hovels covered with mud--about 400 Mulattoes and Indians--placed on a sand bank--the pepole all in the ague--not a boat or ship of any sort. The harbour-master came off on a bulsa, (two bladders lashed together,) paddled by an Indian. We could not get a basket of fruit or vegetables for money. Their cultivation was three leagues off, but they were too lazy to fetch any thing, though a seventy-four and a frigate lay-to twenty hours, offering them any price for their tropical fruits.

"I hire a small room for 12 dollars a month, and sleep on the ground; borrowed a chair, and bought some crockery No such thing as a tavern : never was. Letters of no use; no one asks me to his house. I go to bed at eight o'clock to kill time. A play twice a week : the most fashionable ladies stand up in the front boxes, and light a segar by the chandlier; the house filled with smoke.

"There are 82 titled familes, mostly idiots--all reduced to poverty by the emancipation of their slaves. If the war be continued a year, Peru will be the most wretched country on the globe; indeed the Indians will regain their empire, and exterminate all other colours. The number of blacks in the viceroyalty is estimated at seventy thousand--25,000 in Lima and adjacent villages; the total population of Peru about three millions--three-fourths Indians.

"About the town there are many fine gardens with pretty country houses. Provisions of all sorts excellent, and in the greatest variety; fruits of all climates in the marketplace, the produce of the sea-shore and the Cordillera.--Beef and mutton excellent--the chief supplies come from Jauja an other vallies in the Cordillera. The sea-shore produce is contiued to little vallies badly cultivated; those about the town would disgrace the free negroes of Carolina. Most valuable land a league from the town, half cultivated and half abandoned; every thing left to starved slaves; such famished objects I never behald; no other hands to cultivate. When emancipation becomes general, they will not work, and famine must ensue. "


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Extract of a letter from an Englishman, dated Lima, Septemper 10, 1821

"Lima is what an Englishman would call a dirty colonial town; 6000 inhabitants is the outside of its population; the whites are about 1200 Europeans, and not as many born in the country; the rest are blacks and mulattoes. Of the mulattoes there are eight various shades. I never saw such a wretched herd as Lima incloses; more poverty and misery than in any town of the size in the world.--There are some few splendid houses, but the rest so disgustingly filthy that you cannot go into them without being covered with dust and vermin. The streets, as in all American towns, run at right angles; a powerful stream of water in each; the town is capable of great improvement. The climate must be bad, for the whole population look as if turned out of the hospitals for a day's air; a half-born race--melancholy in their faces. On the whole coast of Peru we made the same observation; the ague very general, with fever--their habits and manner of living increase the evil; thin clothing and vegetable diet--nights very cold --I sleep under a heavy blanket, and could bear another; a thick fog prevents the sun from coming out in winter; the heat however is not excessive during summer; on the whole not an oppressive climate, if the people had any idea of living in a rational way. Very few families cook at home--they buy their greasy messes boiled in the streets, in pulperias, and in the squares; not six families in Lima that have wine on their tables; they drink brandy at all hours, and excuse themselves for not having any thing that is expensive by saying it gives the ague; the same person who denies himself a glass of wine will lay twenty doubloons on a card in the evening. Their money goes in gambling, debauchery, and dress; every woman, high and low, has her price; a lady takes no offence at her frailty being exposed; she tells you she is quite at good as her neighbours, and needs be no better. The Spanish nation and Government are the cause of all the degradation of South America; every Viceroy, from Pizarro to Pezuela, was a plunderer, a teacher of immorality in words and deeds. The miserable state of this people seems incredible--one must see to believe it; scarcely a young lady can read or write, or use a needle; few houses that the Devil has not appeared in; and a devout lady is accompanied in her carriage by the Virgin Mary. Thus is ignorance imposed upon by knaves; as to priestcraft, it reigns here in all its glory; a third part of Lima is covered with churches, some of them very splendid. The whole trade of this part of Peru depends on the single mine of the mountain of Pasco for returns; if this is worked to advantage, it will produce six millions of dollars; but if the country is disturbed by war, not a dollar will they have. The exports of Peru, in ordinary times, were five millions of dollars in pecie, and one million in produce. Mininng may be carried to any extent, it is true; but this requires tranquillity and good government. People in Europe have the most erroneous ideas or Peru; every traveller and historian who has written or talked about it ought to be made to stand in the pillory for a liar."

"Arica, the second port of Peru, and the great outlet to Upper Peru, is a wretched village of hovels covered with mud--about 400 Mulattoes and Indians--placed on a sand bank--the people all in the ague--not a boat or ship of any sort. The harbour-master came off on bulsa, (two bladders lashed together,) paddled by an Indian. We could not get a basket of fruit or vegetablse for money. Their cultuvation was three leagues off, but they were too lazy to fetch any thing, though a seventy-four and a frigate lay-to twnety hours, offering them any price for their tropical fruits.

"I hire a small room for 12 dollars a month, and sleep on the ground; borrowed a chair, and bought some crockery. No such thing as a tavern; never was. Letters of no use; no one asks me to his house. I go to bed at eight o'clock to kill time. A play twice a week; the most fashionable ladies stand up in the front boxes, and light a segar by the chandelier; the house filled with smoke.

"There are 82 titled families, mostly idiots--all reduced to poverty by the emancipation of their slaves. If the war be continued a year, Peru will be the most wretched country on the globe; indeed the Indians will regain their empire, and exterminate all other colours. the number of blacks in the viceroyalty is estimated at seventy thousand--25,000 in Lima and adjacent village, the total population of Peru about three millions--three-fourths Indians.

"About the town there are many fine gardens with pretty country houses. Provisions of all sorts excellent, and in the greatest variety; fruits of all climates in the marketplace, the produce of the sea-shore and the Cordillera.--Beef and mutton excellent--the chief supplies come from Janja and other vallies in the Cordillera. The sea-shore produce is continued to little vallies badly cultivated; those about the town would disgrace the free negroes of Carolina. Most valuable land a league from the town, half cultivated and half abandoned; every thing left to starved slaves; such famished objects I never beheld; no other hands to cultivate. When emancipation becomes general, they will not work, and famine must ensue."


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